Barcelona's Casa Francesc Cama
A Hidden Modernist Masterpiece in the Heart of Gràcia
Nestled along the bustling Carrer Gran de Gràcia, number 77 might not stand out at first glance to the casual pedestrian. But for those who stop and look closer, Casa Francesc Cama reveals itself as a richly decorated modernist jewel with an intriguing backstory. Officially built in 1905, the project was signed by Miquel Pascual i Tintorer, then the municipal architect. However, the artistic vision and design are widely credited to Francesc Berenguer i Mestres, an unlicensed architect and close collaborator of Antoni Gaudí.
Berenguer’s name is far less known than Gaudí’s, yet his imprint on Barcelona’s architectural fabric is both distinctive and profound. Lacking an official degree, he often had to rely on licensed professionals like Pascual Tintorer to formally sign off on his creations. Casa Francesc Cama stands today as a testament to his quiet brilliance—an expressive, refined, and deeply original work that enriches the story of Catalan modernism.
The structure rises with a symmetrical, elegant presence. Its design includes a ground floor with shops, a richly ornamented principal floor, three upper levels, and a rooftop terrace. The building’s main entrance is centred between two commercial doorways and framed by ornate stonework and an iron pillar decorated with stylised plant motifs, setting the tone for the nature-inspired aesthetic throughout.
What truly defines Casa Francesc Cama is its ornamental façade, where Berenguer’s design language comes to life. Between soft green stucco walls, vibrant sgraffito vines dance across the surface, and a prominent date—1905—is proudly inscribed. The central tribune, or bay window, is a highlight, projecting from the principal floor in a polygonal form and adorned with stained glass, ceramics, and wrought iron. These tribunes glow with painted floral patterns and reflect the street’s light in a kaleidoscope of colours.
Beneath the balconies and around the tribunes, you’ll find some of the most striking decorative work: a vibrant trencadís mosaic, made from irregular pieces of colored ceramic. This broken-tile technique, beloved by Gaudí and his circle, is not just decorative—it’s deeply symbolic of modernisme’s fusion of craftsmanship, sustainability, and spontaneity.
Interestingly, the trencadís patterns here match those used in Casa Vidal, another building attributed to Berenguer in Sant Andreu de Palomar, which—like Casa Francesc Cama—was also signed by Pascual Tintorer. This artistic echo offers a fascinating glimpse into Berenguer’s personal visual language, as well as the collaborative dynamics of early modernist practice in Barcelona.
Step past the central doorway and you’ll find a vestibule that feels like a time capsule. White marble flooring, walls lined with glossy ceramic tiles, and an elaborately coffered plaster ceiling greet you in quiet grandeur. At the back of the hallway, there’s a courtyard-style lightwell containing the original porter’s booth, a beautiful wooden elevator, and a sculptural staircase that rises through the centre of the building. This interior isn’t just decorative—it’s functional modernism at its finest, preserving both the aesthetics and the social structure of early 20th-century bourgeois living.
Although his name rarely headlines the guidebooks, Francesc Berenguer i Mestres played a vital role in shaping the architectural identity of modernist Barcelona. Born in Reus in 1866 and passing away in 1914, Berenguer worked extensively with Gaudí, contributing to some of the master’s most iconic projects. Yet he also had a creative life of his own—Casa Francesc Cama being among the finest examples of his independent work.
His career reflects a bittersweet contradiction: immense talent met with structural limitations. Despite lacking formal accreditation, Berenguer’s architectural voice was remarkably distinct, and his designs—like this one—exude clarity, balance, and ornamental richness without ever tipping into excess.
Casa Francesc Cama is now listed as a Local Cultural Heritage Site (BCIL) in Barcelona, ensuring its protection and continued appreciation. Though still a working residential and commercial building, it is increasingly recognised by architecture enthusiasts as a masterpiece of early modernisme—especially for its richly layered decorative elements and the mystery of its semi-anonymous author. It’s a building that doesn’t shout for attention but rewards anyone who lingers long enough to notice its many exquisite details. The neighbourhood of Vila de Gràcia is known for its lively plazas, bohemian spirit, and architectural surprises. Casa Francesc Cama fits seamlessly into this landscape. It may not have the international fame of Casa Batlló or La Pedrera, but it holds something else—a more intimate charm, a sense of being part of the daily life of the city.
For those wandering through Gràcia, this building offers an invitation: slow down, look up, and discover the kind of artistry that defines Barcelona’s legacy as the beating heart of modernisme. This building may not appear in every travel guide, but Casa Francesc Cama is a must-see for lovers of art, architecture, and quiet beauty.
How to Visit
Address: Carrer Gran de Gràcia, 77, 08012 Barcelona
Metro: Fontana (L3) or Diagonal (L3, L5)
There are so many stunning buildings in Barca. Hard to understand all this beauty in one place! You have done a great job capturing the building itself, but also the details that make these places what they are! Really nice!!
Many beautiful modernist buildings don't appear in guidebooks. I've walked past it a hundred times without paying much attention.
How did you get inside if it's a residential building?