From Dawn to Dipping: A Day at Valls’ Gran Festa de la Calçotada
Exploring Catalonia’s Culinary Tradition Through Smoke, Sauce, and Celebration
Last weekend, I attended the Gran Festa de la Calçotada in Valls—a festival renowned for celebrating Catalonia’s beloved calçots. Arriving early to beat the crowds, I took a morning train and reached the town by 9 a.m., two hours before the festivities officially began. It was the perfect opportunity to explore Valls before the city transformed into a bustling hub of culinary excitement.
With plenty of time to spare, I stopped by a charming local café for a simple yet satisfying breakfast of coffee and croissants. From there, I wandered through the old part of town, taking in the quiet streets and beautiful architecture. The calm atmosphere, punctuated by the soft hum of early risers preparing for the day, offered a stark contrast to the energy that would soon take over.
By 10 a.m., the ticket booths opened, and I made my way to the main square to secure my pass for the authentic calçotada experience. I also stumbled upon a stall selling calçotada-inspired green bread, a unique treat that proved irresistible. As the clock ticked closer to 11 a.m., the town square began to swell with visitors, and the once-peaceful streets were soon alive with anticipation.
One of the highlights of my morning was watching the calçots being grilled. It’s an impressive sight—calçots lined up over open flames, their outer layers charred to perfection, filling the air with a smoky aroma that teased the feast.
Eventually, I made my way to the tasting area, where my ticket was exchanged for a bag packed with the essentials: a generous serving of cooked calçots, a small loaf of bread, a bottle of cava, an orange, a bottle of water, and a side of salvitxada sauce. Armed with my bounty, I found a table and joined others indulging in this cherished Catalan tradition.
Peeling back the charred outer layers of the calçots to reveal their tender, juicy insides was half the fun. Dipping them into the rich, nutty salvitxada sauce and lifting them dramatically into my mouth, I understood why this festival was such a cherished event. The flavours were incredible—smoky, slightly sweet, and perfectly complemented by the tangy sauce. Pairing it all with cava made the meal feel celebratory, and the communal vibe at the tables added to the festive atmosphere.
By the time I finished my meal, the town was packed, the energy was palpable, and the streets buzzed with activity—from the calçot-eating contest to live performances and stalls showcasing local products. It was a celebration of food, culture, and community, and I felt fortunate to have experienced it firsthand.
The Gran Festa de la Calçotada in Valls is more than a festival; it’s a feast for the senses and a testament to the importance of tradition in Catalonia’s gastronomic identity. From the quiet streets of early morning to the lively chaos of midday, my day in Valls was unforgettable—an experience that brought me closer to Catalonia’s rich culinary heritage.
Until next time! Safe travels…
Sounds such a wonderful experience. Love the sense of community and participation
Wow… Sounds like a truly unique experience. I’ve never heard of the calçot. Putting this on my bucket list. ✔️ Thank you for covering this place.