Tovallons d'Art: Sitges Exhibition Fuses Catalan Food & Art
A review of the ‘Art Napkins’ exhibition at Mercat Vell, Sitges. Explore how artists transform humble napkins into powerful visual metaphors for gastronomy, memory, and regional identity.
The “Tovallons d’Art” (Art Napkins) exhibition, recently encountered at the atmospheric Mercat Vell in Sitges, offers more than just a collection of art; it presents a profound meditation on the connection between gastronomy, creativity, and regional identity. The experience of seeing the work firsthand proved to be an illuminating journey into the project’s core philosophy: that the simple act of eating is a fundamental cultural expression, rich with history and emotion.
The exhibition begins with a compelling premise, framing cuisine not merely as sustenance but as a vibrant language capable of expressing identity, transmitting knowledge, and weaving essential social ties. This idea echoes the popular wisdom cited by the project: that “cuisine is a country and its landscape placed in a casserole.” This concept provides the intellectual groundwork for the show, positioning the food we consume as a direct narrative of the land from which it originates. By paying tribute to the act of cooking and creation, the exhibition elevates the humble dish to the level of poetry—a composition of colours, flavours, and diversity that demands listening and respect.
Central to this artistic endeavour is the transformation of the restaurant napkin, an object typically fleeting and disposable, into a symbol of lasting dialogue. As the documentation describes, the napkin begins as a “humble element” but, in the hands of a contemporary artist, becomes a canvas. These pieces, originating from participating restaurants across the Catalan regions, carry the essence of their locale. Each artwork is a synthesis, capturing the specific culinary gestures, local raw materials (the materia), and the spirit of the territory, transforming them into a visual metaphor. The result is a vibrant “constellation of works” where the landscape connects directly with the table.
Stepping through the Mercat Vell and examining the individual pieces provided a powerful confirmation of the exhibition’s philosophical depth. The artistic interventions—ranging from abstract compositions to figurative depictions—demonstrate how the fleeting nature of cuisine can be captured and contemplated. The works bring to life the idea that cuisine is a form of “fleeting art,” like a painting on a “cloth of vapour and flavour.” This artistic capture aligns perfectly with the wisdom of the philosopher of taste, Brillat-Savarin: “Tell me what you eat and I will tell you who you are.” The napkins, therefore, become portraits, revealing the identity of both the region and the artist who interpreted it.
Ultimately, the visit to “Tovallons d’Art” was a deeply resonant experience, showcasing the power of art to elevate the everyday. It successfully bridges the gap between the senses—taste, sight, and touch—in a way that honours both innovation and tradition. The exhibition’s final sentiment, that “cooking, creating, is an act of love,” serves as a fitting conclusion, positioning the entire endeavour as a warm, creative celebration of memory and taste. It stands as a powerful reminder that our cultural landscape is reflected not just in grand monuments, but in the most unassuming objects that sit right beside our plate.