Video of Dancing with Devils: The Ultimate Guide to Experiencing Sitges' Correfoc
A visceral journey into Catalonia's fiery folklore, where medieval traditions, rhythmic drums, and a community of fire-dancers come together in an unforgettable street spectacle.
The memory of a Correfoc lingers long after the sparks have faded and the drums have fallen silent. What I experienced last night in Sitges was more than a mere fireworks display; it was a visceral immersion into a spectacle of fire, rhythm, and communal spirit, a living tradition that defines Catalan culture.
At its core, a Correfoc—a term that translates literally to "fire-run"—is an open-air performance where groups of people dressed as devils and other mythical creatures fill the streets, unleashing a torrent of pyrotechnics from pitchforks and other effigies. It's a chaotic yet exhilarating dance between humans and fire, set to the insistent and powerful beat of live drumming. The performance invites a unique form of participation, where spectators are not just observers but are encouraged to "run with the fire" and "dance under the raining fire" alongside the performers.
This fiery spectacle has deep and ancient roots. It evolved from a medieval theatrical tradition known as the Ball de Diables, or "Devils' dance". These early performances were allegorical plays depicting the struggle between good and evil, often performed as interludes at aristocratic banquets and later incorporated into religious processions. Over time, the loud, mischievous antics of the devils became the most popular part of the show, laying the groundwork for the modern, free-spirited fire run. The
Correfoc, as we know it today, however, gained new life after the end of the Franco dictatorship in 1978, which had suppressed many regional traditions. Today, this tradition is a powerful declaration of cultural identity and a testament to the resilience of the Catalan spirit.
In Sitges, this tradition is kept alive by the three main groups of the Ball de Diables de Sitges: the Colla Vella, the Colla Jove, and the Agrupació de Balls Populars. Each group has its own unique history, but together, they carry the torch of this tradition, ensuring it is passed down through generations, with even children participating in special versions of the event.
For those who filmed the experience, as I did, the video captures the vibrant energy and chaotic beauty. For those brave enough to step into the flames, a few practical rules are essential. The spectacle is inherently loud and filled with sparks, so attendees are advised to take precautions to protect themselves. This means wearing long-sleeved shirts, long trousers, and a hat, preferably made from cotton or other non-flammable materials. Eyewear and closed-toe shoes are also highly recommended to prevent any stray sparks from causing injury. The sense of shared adventure and controlled chaos is what makes the
The Correfoc on September 20 is a highlight of the Festa Major de Santa Tecla, a festival that honours the town’s co-patron saint and is known as the "small" Festa Major. It’s a festival distinguished by its intimate, family-oriented character, with the Correfoc serving as a powerful and fiery prelude to the more traditional and solemn events that follow.
What I witnessed was a profound celebration of history, community, and the enduring power of tradition, all wrapped in a breathtaking display of fire. It's an event that not only entertains but also connects everyone present to a centuries-old narrative, a shared inheritance of passion and defiance.